Seedlings will survive a light frost, and resume growing again when the ground warms up. If both carrots have germinated and survive transplanting, thin to one carrot. Like many other root crops, carrots are a hardy vegetable which grow best in cool temperatures. When the cotyledons emerge and get to be about ¾” long, carefully push the soil plug out of the tray and transplant the whole plug into the ground. Use seed starting trays that are at least 2” deep. Start carrots in seed starting trays indoors, in good quality, finely textured and densely packed potting soil. Transplanting Carrots the Only Way I Know That Kinda Sorta (But Not Really) Works Until a couple of years ago, I had never used them for carrots. The lights hang on little chains so I can adjust their height. It consists of some sturdy wire shelving from Costco with cool-white fluorescent shop lights hanging from the shelves, illuminating the shelf below. I have a basement seed starting operation that I use for growing my own starts in the spring. Only one of them worked (the other yielded badly forked carrots, so I won't share.) So this year I have tried a couple of ways to start a midsummer carrot crop in my hot dry climate. By the time the cotyledons (the long “seed leaves” that first emerge) are big enough to use as a handle for transplanting, the roots are already 2-3 inches long, and it's very difficult to handle these delicate roots without damaging them. The difficulty with transplanting carrots is that as soon as the seed germinates, it sends down an incredibly long - for its size - taproot. When the soil was still wet and cold from winter. What we should have done, you and I, is set our seeds down in the spring Carrot Seedlings in a Deep-Root Seed Starting Tray
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